Filzmoos is a small, idyllic village nestled in the northeastern part of the Salzburg region, in the Pongau district, at an altitude of approximately 1,000 meters above sea level. The town lies at the foot of the Dachstein Massif, surrounded by the majestic peaks of Dachstein and Bischofsmütze, which soar into the sky, creating breathtaking Alpine landscapes.
During our stay, we stayed at Appartement Resort Hanneshof and dined at the restaurant of Hotel Bischofsmütze, located just next door. Every evening, a four-course dinner was served, offering a choice of three main courses—meat, vegetarian, or fish—along with a salad buffet.
In the morning during breakfast, we had to choose which dish we wanted for dinner and indicate that it should be the gluten-free option.
The hotel caters to special dietary requirements, providing meals for guests following gluten-free, vegetarian, or diabetic diets (with the option to store insulin). However, these dietary needs must be communicated at the time of booking, as the hotel charges a fee of €10 per person per day for the preparation of special meals.
The town is very peaceful, offering a relaxing and laid-back atmosphere. During the summer, the town center comes to life with concerts featuring local musicians, as well as guest performers from other regions and even different countries. We were lucky to catch a concert by a youth group from London.
Filzmoos is a fantastic base for exploring the surrounding area!
There’s also a great enclosed dog park, a perfect space for pups to run around. Carmel was absolutely thrilled—he could chase butterflies to his heart’s content while I didn’t have to worry about him running off and getting lost.
During our stay, we received the Filzmoos Sommer Card, which grants access to additional attractions and amenities, enhancing the overall experience – f.ex. free travel on : The Papageno Cable Car, The Almi Schuttle, Fidi Bus., free 2 hours in Filzmoos Leisure Centre and more . The card is included on stays of one night or more.
Each guest receives an idividual non-transferable card on stays of over one night.
More info here: https://www.filzmoos.at/en/services/filzmoos-sommer-card.html
What did we explore?
The Almi Shuttle
As part of the Filzmoos Sommer Card, we had the opportunity to enjoy a free ride on a unique vehicle – the alpine “Ålmi Shuttle” a charming mobile hut pulled by a tractor. It’s truly something special – a cozy cabin on wheels! The Ålmi runs several times a day, transporting passengers from Filzmoos to Kirchgasshütte/Aualm and back in just 25 minutes. This journey was an unforgettable experience! The picturesque route led us straight to an enchanting, vast mountain pasture nestled at the foot of majestic peaks.
The ride itself was a delight, and thanks to this unique mode of transport, we effortlessly reached this stunning location. The highlight of the day? Families of cows leisurely grazing in the idyllic scenery completely stole my heart.
We spent a good amount of time strolling around, soaking in the breathtaking views and enjoying the company of the charming four-legged locals. On our way back, we stopped at a lovely alpine hut to refresh ourselves with some delicious lemonade.
The Hohenwerfen Castle
Not far from Filzmoos, about 30 km away, we visited the medieval Hohenwerfen Castle in the town of Werfen. Perched dramatically on a high rocky cliff above the town, this fortress has stood strong for nearly 900 years, successfully guarding the access to Salzburg.
Hohenwerfen is a “sister” of Hohensalzburg Fortress in Salzburg, both built by the Archbishops of Salzburg in the 11th century. The castle became known internationally as the main location in the film Where Eagles Dare.
The Castle is surrounded by an extraordinary landscape. A former defensive bastion, it is enthroned high above the Salzach River Valley, offering exciting experiences.
You can reach the castle either by walking along a winding path through the forest at the foot of the rocky hill or by taking the elevator. To save time, we chose the second option and took the elevator.
At the castle, you can try walking on stilts and explore its chambers with an enthusiastic guide who will bring the history of this medieval fortress to life.
The true gem of Hohenwerfen is the spectacular daily falconry shows hosted by the castle’s historic falconry school. Majestic falcons, eagles, and other birds of prey showcase their incredible skills, soaring through the sky in breathtaking displays of agility and precision. We had the chance to attend one of these shows, and it truly was an unforgettable experience. If you’re planning a visit, be sure to check the schedule for the bird shows – they are absolutely worth it. Highly recommended!
Official site:
https://www.salzburg-burgen.at/en/hohenwerfen-castle/
The marmot meadow at Bachlalm
If you’re in the Filzmoos area, make sure to visit one of the most unique spots – the marmot meadow at Bachlalm. This extraordinary place is home to whole families of these adorable and friendly creatures, living freely in their natural habitat. The marmots here are completely unrestrained, making every encounter with them a true adventure.
To get there, we drove to the nearby toward Bachlalm and parked our car at he Wandererparkplatz zur Bachlalm.
The meadow can be reached on foot – although the trail is quite steep. Since it was already late afternoon, we decided to take a bus that picks up tourists from … To call the driver, I had to use the phone number displayed on the information board, which was very convenient as the bus arrived quickly.
Armed with carrots and unsalted peanuts, we set off to meet the meadow’s residents. The bus driver warned us that, at this time of day, the chances of spotting marmots were slim, as they usually sleep in the late afternoon. Nevertheless, we decided to give it a try! Initially, as we wandered around the meadow, we started to lose hope – there were uneaten carrots lying near the burrows, which seemed to confirm the driver’s words. But suddenly, as if sensing our presence, one little marmot timidly peeked out of its burrow. Moments later, more and more marmots began popping out, growing bolder with each appearance!
It turned out they were young, small marmots – likely the youngest members of the marmot families. The carrots didn’t seem to interest them, but the unsalted peanuts were an absolute hit! Over time, we discovered that if we broke the carrots into smaller pieces, they happily munched on those too. Since there were no other people on the meadow, the experience felt even more special. The marmots weren’t afraid of us at all – they came up close and even posed for photos!
After a while, an adult, larger marmot appeared. It observed us cautiously at first, but the peanuts soon convinced it that we came in peace. The whole experience was truly unforgettable! On the way back to the car, we decided to walk, enjoying the scenery and reflecting on the magical time we had spent with the marmots.
Dachstein Glacier
In 2024, the completely modernized cable car to the Dachstein Glacier was officially opened… Hooray! There was no way we were going to miss this experience 🙂
Booking Tickets and Getting There
It’s best to book tickets a few days in advance on the official website https://www.derdachstein.at/en as there are a lot of tourists, and tickets for the gondola often sell out quickly. Make sure to check the weather forecast before booking!
To reach the lower station of the cable car, you need to drive along the toll road Dachsteinstraße from Ramsau am Dachstein. From Filzmoos, it’s about 16 km to the main parking area.
The road is toll-based, with a fee of €20 for passenger cars, but those using the cable car are exempt from this fee after validating their ticket in a special machine at the upper station. The machine for validating tickets is located right at the entrance to the glacier descent.
Cable Car Ride & Stunning Views
The Dachstein cable car consists of two spacious gondolas, each accommodating about 50 people. One of them has an open-air rooftop platform where you can stand during the ride! However, the number of spots on the rooftop is limited, so make sure to check availability when booking your ticket. We didn’t know about this and had to ride inside the cabin… which I still consider an incredible experience.
After just a ten-minute journey in the panoramic gondola, we found ourselves in a completely different world… It was my first time on a glacier! The breathtaking panorama stretched as far as the eye could see, and the attractions:
–Sky Walk – also known as the “Balcony of the Alps,” this viewing platform is built on a 250-meter vertical rock face
– The Suspension Bridge – hanging over a 400-meter drop
– The Stairway to Nothingness – connected to the suspension bridge, this attraction consists of a narrow, transparent staircase leading seemingly into the void
– Ice Palace – we found there intricate ice carvings, illuminated ice walls, and frozen chambers, very magical place, but it was seriously freezing up there. Make sure to bring warm clothes.
There is also a cozy restaurant at the top offers traditional Austrian cuisinewitha stunning panoramic view, bu we had our own snacks, so we didn’t eat there.
Glacier Weather – Expect the Unexpected!
Weather conditions at the top can change in the blink of an eye. We started our journey on a hot, sunny summer day, but at the top, it was cold and cloudy. However, after a short while, the skies cleared, the temperature rose, and we were able to walk around in short sleeves!
Conditions were good enough for us to take a walk along a marked trail, in addition to visiting the must-see attractions. To be honest, my shoes were not the best choice for this adventure—they got soaked and freezing cold. But I was so mesmerized by the place that I barely even noticed!
That being said, I highly recommend wearing proper hiking boots for this trip.
This was truly an unforgettable adventure, and the views were absolutely breathtaking! If you have the chance, don’t miss the opportunity to visit the Dachstein Glacier!
A bit of adrenaline rush!
On the way back, we stopped in Ramsau am Dachstein to take an amazing Rittisberg Coaster summer toboggan run. Joy, adrenaline, and breathtaking views guaranteed!
Here’s all the info about it. https://www.schladming-dachstein.at/en/service/infos-from-a-z/Rittisberg-Coaster-summer-toboggan-run_az_342185
If you’re a fan of thrills and adrenaline, you’re going to love Zipline Stoderzinken in Gröbming. It’s the largest zipline in the Alps! The ride starts at an altitude of 1,600 meters above sea level and descends to Adventure Park Gröbming, located at 900 meters. Participants get to glide down four parallel lines, covering a total distance of approximately 2.5 km and reaching speeds of up to 115 km/h. In some places, you’ll be soaring 160 meters above the ground.
I personally didn’t dare to try it, but my daughter did—and she absolutely loved it!
Gröbming is less than 40 km from Filzmoos.
Make sure to book your slot online in advance. You should arrive at least 30 minutes before your scheduled time, as you’ll need to collect your harness and other equipment. A special bus takes participants up to the starting point. In Gröbming, there’s also the Adventure Park, but I recommend checking it out in person before deciding to go for it.
Salzburg
We couldn’t miss a visit to the capital of the land—Salzburg. From Filzmoos, it’s about a one-hour drive by car, covering a distance of 70 km.
Salzburg is a city full of history and culture. It is the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and its Old Town is rightfully listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Due to the weather, we didn’t spend the whole day there, as the city welcomed us with heavy rain. Because of that, we started our visit at the Red Bull Hangar-7 Museum, which meant we had less time to explore the city itself and visit the fortress.
That being said, I highly recommend visiting the Hangar-7 Museum as well! Of course, seeing Red Bull’s impressive and agile machines was exciting, but what surprised me the most was… the huge bouquets of fresh flowers in the restroom! 😆
In Austria, especially in Salzburg, the so-called Mozartkugeln, or Mozart chocolate balls, are extremely popular. These small, round chocolates consist of a delicious marzipan, nougat, and pistachio filling, all covered in a smooth layer of chocolate.
You will find them almost everywhere in Salzburg, from souvenir shops to cafés, and they are also widely available in supermarkets across Austria.
Most Mozartkugeln are naturally gluten-free, but it’s always a good idea to check the packaging, as different brands produce them, and ingredients may vary slightly. They are delicious!
We started our visit to the city center with a tour of Hohensalzburg Fortress.
The fortress majestically towers over the city, offering a breathtaking panoramic view of Salzburg and the surrounding Alps. You can reach it either on foot or by funicular – no matter how you get there, it’s an impressive sight.
After descending from the castle, we wandered through the Old Town, visiting places like Mozart’s birthplace. To my surprise, despite being the peak of the tourist season, the city didn’t feel overcrowded.
What I will definitely remember is the beautiful architecture and the charming horse-drawn carriages, leisurely carrying tourists through the picturesque streets. The whole atmosphere in Salzburg was incredibly pleasant and unhurried, making it easy to enjoy every moment.
We will definitely return – there’s still so much left to explore!
Hallstatt
We also explored Hallstatt, a charming town located about 60 km away from Filzmoos.
Hallstatt is a place of incredibly rich history, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of its most remarkable attractions is the world’s oldest still-operating salt mine Salzwelten, which visitors can explore. However, our main goal was the Skywalk Hallstatt viewing platform.
To reach the Skywalk, we had to wait in line for the funicular, which transports both tourists wanting to admire the view and those planning to visit the salt mine. It seemed like most people were waiting for the second option, which made the queue even longer. If we hadn’t already purchased our tickets, we would have chosen to hike up instead – there is a yellow trail leading to the top.
Once we reached the top, the view from the Skywalk was absolutely stunning. From here, you can admire a fantastic panorama of Lake Hallstätter See and the surrounding mountains. The breathtaking landscape immediately reminded me of my beloved Lake Garda in Northern Italy.
The funicular station is located near Parking P2, where we managed to park. It’s important to note that only residents are allowed to drive into the town center.
Hallstatt itself is just like fairytale town – colorful, charming, and filled with narrow, atmospheric streets and beautiful flowers. Asian tourists, especially Chinese visitors, make up the largest group of travelers here. An interesting fact is that Hallstatt impressed the Chinese so much that in 2012, they built an exact replica of the town in their own country. However, nothing compares to the original, and Chinese tourists continue to visit Hallstatt in large numbers. 😊
Practical tips:
Bring cash – most of shops and restaurants do not accept card payments
Boat tour reservation – unfortunately, we couldn’t go on a boat cruise on Lake Hallstätter See, as all spots were already booked. It’s a good idea to reserve tickets in advance
What’s next? We will definitely return to Hallstatt, and next time, we plan to visit also the 5Fingers viewing platform, which is said to offer even more spectacular views.
We also used the Filzmoos Sommer Card for a free ride on the Papageno Cable Car, which took us from the center of Filzmoos up to the Rossbrand adventure mountain. We visited this place on the last day of our stay in Filzmoos and the weather was very foggy, so the visibility was practically zero. But no worries – we’ll definitely be back! 😊
From the summit, there is supposedly (yes, supposedly 😉) a breathtaking 360° panoramic view, showcasing the Dachstein, Bischofsmütze, and Höchkönig mountain ranges. On a clear day, you can even spot the majestic Grossglockner.
On our way down, at the foot of the mountain, we came across some beautiful horses, which was a lovely surprise.
Winter in Filzmoos
Filzmoos is also a fantastic destination for a winter getaway. It is a much quieter and more peaceful resort compared to Austria’s more popular ski destinations, yet it is perfectly prepared for winter sports.
The town itself offers around 20 kilometers of ski slopes, served by 8 lifts. One of the highlights is the 16-kilometer High Alpine Trail, which runs along the slopes of Rossbrand Peak at an altitude of over 1,700 meters above sea level.
In total, visitors can enjoy 50 kilometers of cross-country skiing trails, so there’s definitely plenty to do for winter sports enthusiasts!
My dream is to visit Filzmoos one day in January and watch the International Balloon Week, where I could admire hot air balloons rising into the winter sky against the backdrop of majestic mountain peaks. And who knows—maybe one day, I’ll even get to fly in one… 🙂
